The easiest foundation for a house. How to make a foundation for a house with your own hands

Any construction begins with laying the foundation, the quality of which will determine the final result and durability of the structure.

There are a number of requirements for the foundation:

Foundation types

To decide which one is better to make a foundation, you need to know their main characteristics.

In the construction of a private house, laying of several types of foundation is used, the choice of which depends on factors such as:

• weight of the planned structure;
• the quality of the underlying surface;
• terrain relief;
• soil freezing depth.

Available types of foundation for private houses are:

• tape;
• columnar;
• pile;
• slab.

Tape - this is the most popular type of foundation. Its arrangement is recommended for the construction of heavy structures (made of bricks, slabs, blocks) in conditions of stable soil, not subject to erosion and landslides, on a leveled surface and in a temperate climate.

This is what the tape base of the future house looks like

It is laid in conditions of unstable soil, as well as on relief terrain. The depth of its bookmark reaches up to 3 meters. It is very expensive to lay a strip foundation at such a depth.

It is recommended for wetlands, as well as for the conditions of the north, where deep freezing of the soil occurs. The pile foundation is used for capital structures only in case of emergency, because. after a short time, it loosens for one reason or another, which can lead to deformation of the walls and foundation of the building.

A slab foundation is an ideal solution if there is mobile unstable soil, as well as in areas where there is a pronounced heaving of the soil during freezing.

An example of a finished slab foundation for a cottage

It withstands the heaviest structures and allows you to maintain the integrity of the base and walls of the building during the movement of soils. However, its price exceeds the cost of all the above types of foundation, which is associated with a large amount of building material spent.

So, let's consider how to make a foundation for a house with your own hands. Let us dwell on the tape base, as the most common in private construction.

Consider the stages of earthworks, learn how to make a formwork for the foundation and how to pour it under the house.

Laying the strip foundation

The main stages of laying the tape base are as follows.

Stage 1 Determining the depth of groundwater

In order to determine the level of groundwater passage, it is necessary to dig a hole 1 m deep and 1 m wide.


Leave the pit for a day, and after 24 hours analyze: if the bottom remains dry, then under the house you can fill in the usual strip foundation, buried up to half a meter.

If water is found in the pit, then the foundation must be deepened to a level of up to 1.5 m and it is mandatory to organize its waterproofing.

Stage 2 Site marking and foundation project

At this stage, based on the data of the project documentation of the future house, it is necessary to mark the foundation on the site. To do this, a peg is first driven in and the width of the future structure is measured from it and the peg is driven in again.

From the second peg, the length of the future house is measured until the contour closes. When marking the foundation, it is necessary to make sure that the angle between the pegs is strictly straight, otherwise the foundation will not be able to perform its main functions for a long time.


After these operations, it is necessary to remove the fertile layer of earth from the site under the foundation and dig a trench around the entire perimeter of the future house. The depth of the trench will depend on the weight of the building under construction, as well as on the characteristics of the underlying surface, and its width will be 30-40 cm.

Attention! The level of deepening of the foundation tape must be below the groundwater level. Fertile soil is recommended not to be taken out, but stored on the site for its further use in the restoration of the local area after construction is completed.

After cleaning the walls and bottom of the trench, it is necessary to equip a drainage cushion at the bottom of the foundation pit. To do this, it is recommended to use a layered arrangement of coarse sand and gravel, and the sand layer is necessarily moistened and compacted (how many such layers you will make is up to you). The optimal height of such a pillow for a strip foundation is up to 20 cm.

Stage 3 Foundation reinforcement

It is impossible to make it without a solid foundation, so pay no less attention to this stage than pouring the foundation. To begin with, bricks are placed on the erected layered pillow at the bottom of the trench. Reinforcing bars are laid on them, crossing each other. In places where the bars intersect with each other, it is necessary to fasten them together with steel wire.

Thus, a kind of lattice is created. It is not recommended to connect the rods to each other by spot welding, as in this case the structure will lose its flexibility and will not be able to fully resist the heaving of the soil or its displacement.

Sample of the correct reinforcement

Stage 4 Foundation waterproofing

Roofing material and bitumen are used as waterproofing materials. The bottom of the trench is covered with roofing material. In this case, the joints of sheets of roofing material, laid out overlapping each other, are glued with adhesive tape (construction or painting).

For roofing felt from above it is covered with a layer of liquid bitumen. If necessary, you can form up to 2-3 layers of roofing material, covered with bitumen.

Stage 5 Formwork erection

Before pouring the foundation under the house, it is necessary to erect the formwork. Consider how to make formwork for the foundation efficiently and aesthetically. Inexpensive building materials are used for formwork: boards and plywood sheets. The frame of the future foundation is knocked down from the boards.


Make sure that the heads of the nails used to knock down the boards go outside the formwork, and not placed inside. This will keep the look of your foundation.

In order to avoid spreading or moving the boards under the formwork, it is necessary to open them from the outside with short bars.

Stage 6 Foundation pouring

Before you learn how to fill the foundation under the house, you need to decide what to fill it with.

To fill the foundation, a cement mixture is used (note MIX, not SOLUTION, which indicates that the composition should have a dense consistency, and not spread). We prepare the mixture with our own hands, and for this you need to know how much and what components should be included there.

So, the mixture consists of: coarse river sand (3 parts) + cement (1 part) + crushed stone (5 parts).

First, the dry components of the future mixture are mixed, and then they are diluted with water until a paste-like mixture is obtained. The cement mixture should not be poured, it must be laid. Only in this case, the output will be a very strong, durable and reliable foundation.

The entire mass of the cement mixture is not laid immediately, but in parts. Each laid layer is rammed so that voids do not form in the foundation that adversely affect the quality of the foundation.

Table of different grades of concrete

By the way, you can buy a cement mixture. The price per cube of cement for the foundation with delivery averages 2000 rubles, and a self-made mixture will cost you 1050 rubles. per cube

There is a 50% savings at this stage.

And if you decide to hire workers to carry out this stage of construction, then it would be for you from 11 thousand rubles per cubic meter. The price at the same time consists of the cost of materials and wages of builders.

Stage 7 Care of the foundation during its solidification

After laying the entire cement mixture in the formwork, it is necessary to leave the foundation for 25-30 days so that the cement is completely set. However, at this time it is necessary to maintain a certain microclimate for the future foundation of the house.

If you are laying the foundation in a hot summer, then its surface must be regularly moistened, but if in a rainy autumn or spring, then the base, on the contrary, must be isolated from excess moisture by covering it with polyethylene.

The process of wetting concrete during solidification

If you have successfully completed all the stages of laying the foundation, then it will delight you with its strength and long service life.

Building a house from scratch on your own is a difficult task, but doable. Careful calculations, competent selection of building materials and high-quality implementation of each process will help to cope without the involvement of specialists. The most important stage is laying the foundation, because the durability and reliability of any building depends on the strength of the foundation. It will take about 2-3 months to make a foundation for a house with your own hands.

For the construction of residential buildings, a strip foundation is most often used. It can be shallow, if the house is one-story and small area, or standard - laid at a depth of 1.8-2 m. The width of the base tape is usually 40 cm, but can be increased depending on the specific load of the building. When designing a house, you should immediately take into account possible extensions and arrangement of basements and semi-basements. The presence of a common base will greatly simplify the installation of a veranda or other structures that may be needed later.

In order not to be mistaken with the parameters of the base, you need to carefully calculate the total load per square meter of soil and compare it with the allowable values.

When calculating the load, the following factors are taken into account:

Calculations are made using special tables, for each factor separately. After that, all loads are summed up, which determines the depth of the foundation in this area and the allowable width of the base sole.

Base marking

To mark the site for the foundation, you will need pegs, a strong thin rope and a tape measure. First, everything that can interfere with the marking is removed - stones, bushes, dry stumps, and so on. They determine the line of the facade of the house relative to the site and mark it with a rope stretched between the pegs. The distance from one beacon to another should be 30-40 cm more than the width of the facade. The location of the corners of the house is marked on the rope, and 2 perpendicular lines are drawn through these points, slightly longer than the length of the side walls.

Now measure the distance from the corner of the facade to the corner of the back wall and mark the points on both lines, and then pull another rope, parallel to the first. The intersections of the ropes form the corners of the building, and it is from these points that you need to measure the diagonals of the resulting rectangle. If the diagonals are equal, the markup is correct. After that, the inner boundaries of the foundation tape are marked, stepping back from the marking lines 40 cm inside the perimeter. The pegs should be located outside the perimeter - this will allow you to more accurately indicate the corners of the base. The last to outline the internal load-bearing walls, the base for the veranda or porch.

When the markup is ready, they begin to dig trenches under the foundation. This can be done with shovels or with the help of special equipment, which will be many times faster and more convenient. For a shallow foundation, the depth of the trenches is 60-70 cm, for a conventional foundation - from 1.8 m, depending on the level of soil freezing. The bottom of the trench should be at least 20 cm below this level. Depth is measured from the lowest marking point.

The walls of the trenches must be leveled vertically, if the soil crumbles, props are installed. After excavation, the bottom must be checked relative to the horizontal, all irregularities are cut off with a shovel, excess soil is removed. The location and width of the trenches must be fully consistent with the project. The next stage is the installation of a sand and gravel pad, designed to reduce the load from the building on the soil base.

The device of the sand and gravel layer has the following order:

• the bottom of the trenches around the perimeter is covered with a thin layer of coarse-grained river sand;
• spill sand with water and carefully tamp;
• pour another layer of sand and compact again;
• fine gravel is poured and leveled with a layer of 15 cm;
• compact the surface.

For a shallow foundation, the inner surface of the trenches is lined with geotextile before filling with sand. This material protects the sand cushion from erosion by groundwater and siltation.

Formwork installation

The foundation of a residential building should rise above the ground by at least 15 cm. In flooded areas, the height of the aboveground part of the base can reach 50-70 cm. The formwork is assembled taking into account the required height, using improvised materials.

When installing formwork, you will need:

The boards are fastened into rectangular shields, secured with transverse bars from the outside. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside to make it easier to dismantle the formwork. For the same reason, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws, not nails. When assembling, you should consider the location of the sewer holes and make cutouts of the appropriate diameter in the boards. In conclusion, the shields are upholstered with a film that will not allow the tree to absorb water from the solution.

Formwork is installed in parts on both sides of the trenches, and then reinforced with transverse bars every half a meter. The shields are set strictly vertically, maintaining the same distance between opposite sides along the entire length of the perimeter. Outside, the formwork is supported with struts from a bar. There should be no gaps between the lower edge of the shields and the upper edge of the trenches, otherwise the solution will flow out.

The presence of a reinforcing frame in the thickness of the foundation allows you to strengthen the base and extend its service life several times. For the manufacture of the frame, steel reinforcement with a cross section of 10-16 mm is usually used. It is very important to properly tie the rods in order to distribute the load evenly over the entire area.

For work you will additionally need:

• knitting wire;
• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• cutting plastic pipes;
• roulette.

The reinforcement is cut with a grinder along the length and width of the trenches, after which a lattice with cells from 30 cm is knitted from it. To do this, 4-5 longitudinal rods are fastened with transverse segments every 30 cm.

It is categorically not recommended to use welding for the connection, since it weakens the attachment points and contributes to the corrosion of the rods. The frame must be voluminous, so horizontal gratings are placed at 3-4 levels, tied with vertical bars.

Additional fastenings should be made at each corner of the foundation and at the intersections of load-bearing internal walls. You can lower the frame into the trenches in parts, and already inside tie them together. To avoid corrosion as much as possible, the reinforcement cannot be laid directly on the sand: they take an old plastic pipe, cut it into rings 4-5 cm wide and put it under the grate in the corners and every 50-60 cm along the trenches. Between the side walls and the edges of the frame, you need to leave about 5 cm, the same applies to the upper edge of the reinforcement.

When the grate is fixed inside the formwork, the level of pouring concrete is indicated on the inside of the shields. You can do this with the help of a fishing line: small carnations are stuffed at the ends of the formwork and a fishing line stretched strictly horizontally is fixed on them. It should be located 5 cm above the edges of the reinforcement grid and run along the entire perimeter at the same horizontal level.

It is recommended to pour the solution at a time, but not by the total mass, but in layers. Each layer should be no thicker than 20 cm; this will evenly distribute it between the cells of the reinforcement and reduce the number of air voids. For the manufacture of the mixture, cement M400 or M500, fine crushed stone and coarse-grained river sand are taken.

It is very important to correctly observe the proportions during mixing, otherwise the quality of the solution will be below normal. For 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of sifted sand and 5 buckets of crushed stone are required. Water should be taken about half of the total volume, add it in portions so as not to overdo it. The solution should not be too liquid or too thick: high-quality concrete has a uniform consistency, when the shovel is turned over, it slowly slides off with a total mass.

After pouring the first portion, the solution is leveled with a shovel and pierced along the entire length of the trenches with a piece of reinforcement to release the air that has accumulated in the solution during kneading. It is very effective to compact concrete with a vibrator, it increases the strength of the monolith several times. In the same way, the remaining layers are poured until the surface of the concrete is level with the stretched fishing line. The formwork is tapped with a hammer, after which the top of the solution is leveled with a rule or trowel.

It takes about a month to strengthen the foundation. To prevent the surface from cracking, it is constantly moistened and covered with polyethylene from rain. In hot weather, concrete should also be covered from direct sunlight to avoid cracking. Formwork can be dismantled 10-15 days after pouring, and construction work can be continued after 28-30 days.

Video - Do-it-yourself foundation for a house

There are many types of foundations for the construction of private low-rise buildings. But most often, under domestic cottages, an option is set up in the form of reinforced concrete tape under load-bearing walls. After all, to make a strip foundation with your own hands, you only need to have minimal skills in mixing concrete and follow the instructions. The technology for arranging such a foundation is simple, which is why it is chosen so often for independent execution.

What it is?

Structurally, a strip foundation is a reinforced concrete structure created along the perimeter of the future structure to redistribute the load on the ground. A similar support is used for the construction of residential buildings, garages, outbuildings, baths, garages and even fences. It's not difficult to make it yourself.

This is how he looks

However, when building such a foundation, it is extremely important to adhere to certain rules and recommendations. If the technology for manufacturing the strip foundation is not followed, the durability of the supporting structure itself and the building on it can be forgotten. They won't last long.

Seasonal heaving of soils, the effect of moisture on concrete without waterproofing, incorrectly calculated loads - there are many reasons for the destruction of the strip base on which the house already stands. All of them must be foreseen and taken into account in advance, otherwise a damaged or completely destroyed structure will have to be rebuilt.

Types and types of foundation

According to the depth of laying, it is MZLF (shallow) and simply buried. In the first case, the concrete belt for a low-rise building is buried only 200–400 mm into the ground, and in the second case, it is buried up to one and a half meters (below the ground freezing level).

If the soils at the construction site are rocky, and the groundwater is deep, then it is better to choose a cheap and shallow concrete option, small in volume. On heaving, high groundwater levels and sandy areas for the house, you will have to make a more powerful and expensive support. Often, the estimate for a similar basis for a dwelling is such that you generally have to choose a different type of foundation.

Scheme of walls with MZLF

Structurally, the tape reinforced concrete base is:

Monolithic;

The first type is performed by pouring a reinforced concrete belt. The second option is laid out from special factory-made foundation blocks (FBS) or bricks.

Pros and cons of strip foundation

It has three undoubted advantages

Extreme simplicity of the device - any novice builder can handle pouring concrete and laying blocks (there is a step-by-step instruction - to build everything correctly, you just need to follow it step by step);

The ability to withstand heavy loads both from below the ground and from above from the weight of the cottage and everything in it.

A reinforced concrete strip base will last for many years, even if not light aerated concrete blocks are taken for the construction of the walls of the house, but a heavy solid brick. In terms of cost, it is second only to screw piles, but in most cases it surpasses them in reliability.

Among the disadvantages of such a foundation are:

Mandatory thorough analysis of soils at the construction site;

The need to use lifting equipment (in the case of using FBS);

Long-term curing of concrete for at least 3 weeks (when choosing a monolithic option);

The impossibility of bookmarking on strongly heaving and watered soils.

Step-by-step instructions - do-it-yourself foundation

The thickness and height of the tape of the base under consideration, as well as the depth of its laying, are selected based on the analysis of the soil, the climatic conditions of the area and the number of storeys of the house being built. Without knowledge in this area, it is better to entrust this design stage to a professional. There are many nuances and requirements of GOSTs that must be observed.

But it is quite possible to create a support for your house according to an already finished project on your own. But in order to avoid mistakes, it is best to make the strip foundation yourself with the step-by-step instructions given below. It describes all the details of building a similar design for a typical one-story cottage.

Stages of work

The first stage is marking and earthworks. Regardless of the depth of laying, the sole must rest on solid layers of soil. It can be clays, sandy loams, stony layers or loams. Usually they are hidden under the turf and layers of ordinary earth. All this will have to be torn down and removed before starting to build the foundation of the house.



We prepare the site, distribute the main materials: fittings, insulation, formwork boards

To mark the site, you will need pegs, a tape measure and twine. If the soil is dense, then excellent formwork will be obtained from the walls of the dug trench. It will only be necessary to increase it then from above. If the soil is loose and constantly crumbling, then the trench will have to be dug a little wider in width so that formwork boards can be placed inside the pit.

The second stage is the preparation of the pillow. The bottom of the excavated trench is leveled with sand and fine gravel. This sand and gravel layer should be carefully compacted, pouring water as it is filled. In height, it should turn out to be within 10–30 cm. This pillow serves to redistribute and reduce point loads on the strip foundation from below during seasonal swelling of the soil.



On top of the pillow, you can put a heater - this will avoid heaving from freezing of the soil

The third stage is the setting of the formwork. Here you will need bars with a cross section of 30 to 40 mm and boards 15–20 mm thick or laminated chipboard. The formwork created for the concrete foundation of the house will subsequently have to withstand a considerable mass of concrete poured into it. Make it strong and reliable. If, after filling with a concrete mixture, it collapses, then everything will have to be started anew.



We expose the formwork from the boards

If the groundwater at the construction site is high, then reinforced concrete will require waterproofing. From above, at the level of the basement of the house, it is usually coated. And to protect that part of the base that remains in the ground, a roofing material should be laid in a trench on the sides and at the bottom. It will reliably protect concrete from excess moisture in the soil at the stage of its solidification and after.

The fourth stage is the laying of reinforcement. For reinforcement, steel rods with a cross section of 14–16 mm and a thin dressing wire are usually used. You can also fasten the reinforcement by electric welding. But in this case, experience with a welding machine and he himself is necessary. Plus, when performing welding, one must be prepared for the appearance of metal corrosion in the future.



We knit reinforcement






Inside the trench, as a result, a frame of reinforcement with cells of 25–30 cm should be formed. Moreover, it is laid in such a way that the steel is covered from all sides with poured concrete. Otherwise, the metal will inevitably begin to rust, then the house will definitely not stand idle for a long time.








The fifth stage is pouring concrete or laying out FBS. If it is decided to equip the foundation for the house being built using block technology, then this greatly speeds up the process of its construction. Here you do not have to make formwork and wait almost a month until the concrete setting is completed.

However, reliance on foundation blocks will cost more than a monolithic counterpart. Plus, they will have to dig a larger trench in width. To distribute loads for the bottom row, FBS masonry is made with an expanding base.

If a monolithic option is chosen for the support device, concrete should be poured immediately over the entire surface. No breaks in length and no layers in height. A monolith is a monolith. The house must stand on a solid foundation.



Nails can mark the border of the pour in the formwork

When self-preparing the concrete mix, it is necessary to mix cement, sand and crushed stone in proportions of 1: 3: 3. But it is better to initially order a ready-made solution with the M300 brand and higher.



We fill











When pouring concrete, it is extremely important to ensure that no voids form inside it. There are special vibrators for compaction. However, you can also use a piece of reinforcement to pierce the filled mass and release air from it.








The sixth stage is waterproofing and blind area. It is allowed to start waterproofing work 3-4 days after pouring concrete. It takes about three weeks to complete its setting. But you can already begin to process with mastic, even if not completely frozen, the strip foundation for the house.



We are waiting for solidification

Also, around the entire perimeter of the building, you will need to make a blind area to drain rainwater away from its walls.



Finished foundation with basement rows of bricks

Use for building a house

Such a support can easily withstand private houses two or three floors high. To build a cottage on it, you can choose glued beams, logs, foam blocks or ceramic blocks. It is only necessary to correctly examine the soil and correctly calculate all the loads. At the end, the foundation will not hurt to veneer for additional protection from the weather. For this, natural stone or clinker tiles for the facade are ideal. But you can also choose an easier-to-install and inexpensive corrugated board or siding.

Light foundation in construction

Construction varies widely in scale and technical specifications. A lot of data that are determined in the course of pre-project surveys, as well as the operational characteristics of the future structure, leave their imprints when choosing the type and parameters of the foundation. The cost of building a foundation is an important part of the estimate of the entire construction and should be saved on this, but within reason. Simply put, when you should not build a monolithic foundation 2 meters into the ground.

A light foundation is the best alternative to a massive foundation. It is often used for small, often wooden, buildings. It is log cabins, wooden sheds and frame houses that are considered to be light buildings. The load they create can be easily transferred with a simplified view of the base. This type is a quick foundation, the creation of which takes significantly less time than a large full-fledged foundation for a large house.

The simplest foundation can be made with your own hands, but first you need to decide on the technical indicators of the project and the methodology for performing the work.

What foundation to choose for easy construction

A simple foundation is represented by several types:

1. Pile.
2. Columnar.
3. Simplified tape.

A quick foundation for a house is used only in cases where the load generated by the operation of the building can be supported by a simple foundation.

The key parameters when choosing a particular type of foundation are:

• The functional purpose of the building.
• building parameters.
• Bearing characteristics of soils.

Based on the results of the analysis of the initial information, a decision is made on a specific version of the base, which will provide sufficient strength and durability.

Also, each type of foundation has its own characteristics of construction, which should also be considered when choosing.

For a strip base, you will have to prepare, the dimensions of which are laid down in the project. The pile foundation requires driving the supports to a specified depth using special construction equipment. The most popular at the present stage among light foundations is screw.

During construction, no preliminary excavation is required. The prepared supports are screwed directly into the existing soil surface on the building site. Therefore, saving money starts at this stage. Construction does not require large-sized equipment, and in some cases screwing can be done by hand using simple tools.

Light foundation is mainly used for wooden buildings. Therefore, it is necessary to provide protection against the destructive effects of moisture in the soil. Waterproofing is carried out from building materials with maximum strength and durability.

The easiest foundation for a light home with your own hands

columnar base

The foundation for easy construction in most situations is done on their own. The optimal type of construction here is a columnar base - in terms of technical characteristics and construction speed.

The cost of materials and work during the construction of a columnar foundation is significantly lower than that of other foundations. The technology of work is simple and does not require specialized equipment. In addition, the columnar foundation is universal and suitable for use on various soils. Also, there is no need for complex heat and waterproofing work.

The key parameter that determines the features of work during the construction of a columnar base is the material for the supports. As a material can be used:

• Brick.
• Concrete mix.
• Concrete blocks of various grades.
• Rubble concrete.
• Natural stone.

It is not difficult to build a simple foundation with your own hands - it is important to have a properly drawn up project, created taking into account the individual characteristics of the construction site. If the foundation is intended for a small outbuilding, then you can do without a project.

Initially, the building site should be prepared for subsequent work. To do this, the site is cleared of debris and remove excess vegetation. If necessary, the site is leveled to a certain slope. After that, proceed to the marking of the site. This is done either with a tape measure or with special geodetic tools, depending on the complexity of the structure. It is extremely important to observe the accuracy of geometric shapes on the site.

At the initial stage, it is important to ensure that all the necessary materials and tools are available to perform the work. This will allow you to perform work without delays and stops, ensuring the exact observance of the technology.

The choice of material for the construction of supports determines the size of the wells for installing the supports. If bricks or blocks will be mounted on mortar, then a place should be provided for masonry work. After creating the pillars, they are covered with a waterproofing material.

In general terms, the execution of work on the construction of a foundation of bricks, blocks and takes place according to the standard scheme. Some differences are due only to the shape and size of the materials.

To give additional structural strength, several reinforcements are installed in the central part of the support. The protruding part of the rod after mounting the support is cut off with a "grinder".

If the soil has sufficient strength, then you can make a hole exactly in accordance with the dimensions of the future support. Thus, there is no need for the design and installation of formwork. The role of the guide planes is performed by the soil itself. The disadvantage of this technique is the lack of a waterproofing coating of the supports, which significantly reduces the durability of the structure.

After the support reaches the ground surface, the support can be removed with blocks or bricks.

Simplified strip foundation

Another popular foundation option for light buildings is a simplified lightweight strip foundation. In our lane, this type of base is especially practical. In general terms, the foundation is a prefabricated or monolithic reinforced concrete strip that runs along the entire perimeter of the building.

The advantages of the strip foundation are:

• durability,
• strength,
• reliability,
• load bearing capacity.

The construction of such a base is much more expensive than a columnar counterpart. Strip foundations are divided into the following types:

1. Prefabricated bases.
2. Monolithic.

The latter option has increased strength, as it is a one-piece structure. The prefabricated type is the result of constructing a base from several constituent blocks.

When building a simple monolithic strip foundation, the following steps must be completed:

1. Mandatory preparatory work. Standard, but necessary cleaning of the territory, subsequent leveling of the unevenness of the building site, marking the axes of the future building.
2. Preparation of a trench, the dimensions of which are determined by the thickness of the future walls. Depending on the size and depth of the trench, work can be done both manually and with the involvement of special equipment.
3. Assembly and installation of formwork.
4. Creating a frame from reinforcement and installing it in a trench.
5. Direct pouring of the base, which is the final stage of the work.

The foundation for a light house can provide high strength for this type of structure. The load that a wooden structure creates is small compared to stone houses. The dimensions of structures for domestic and household needs are also not as large as standard housing construction. It follows from this that the strength of a light foundation does not have to be high - it is enough to limit yourself to a small margin of safety.

simple foundations

In modern housing construction, a light type of foundation is one of the ways to optimize the process of building a house. And for small houses, such a foundation is the most rational solution.

A simple foundation for light wooden structures becomes an excellent solution for arranging the base. This significantly reduces the cost of construction. Cost-effectiveness and high speed of construction serve as the basis for the use of this type of foundation in the production of various works.