When building any house, you need to be especially careful when laying the foundation. It must be strong, reliable and durable. Does the foundation need to be warm? Is it so important to make a warm foundation and which one is warmer? Does the temperature of the floor depend on this and does it affect the strength and durability of the base? - Let's take everything in order.
Foundation and cold floor
Often, after building a house and settling in, the owners suddenly discover that at normal room temperature the floor remains cold. You have to wear slippers or warm socks, the owner begins to regret that he did not make a warm floor. There may be several reasons:
- the thermal insulation of the foundation at the junction with the wall was not properly made;
- the floor of the house is not insulated, or there are too large gaps in the floorboards;
- very high ceilings.
As you can see, the foundation of the house is not to blame. Most often - this is insufficient floor insulation. As a rule, thermal insulation is laid under the floor in several layers, which prevents the penetration of cold.
If not put between the foundation and brick wall an insulating layer, cold bridges are formed, as a result of which cold penetrates through the walls (as a rule, it is especially noticeable in the corners where the plinth is mounted).
High ceilings are an indirect reason. The main reason is that warm air rises due to convection, and at normal room temperature in the house, the height difference adversely affects the floor temperature and can be up to 5 degrees.
Is a cold foundation unreliable?
It is believed that low temperatures adversely affect the reliability of the foundation. This is partly true, partly not. In fact, if the concrete foundation of the house is installed according to technology, then no frost is terrible for him. Water is terrible, which shrinks when freezing, and expands when the temperature rises - it is the reason for the destruction of the base.
To solve the problem, you need to make good drainage and lay the foundation below the freezing level of the soil. Drainage pipes must be covered with crushed stone of medium grain size so that they do not clog.
It is not frost that destroys the foundation, it is water that destroys it.
Now let's talk about warm bases.
Varieties of "warm" foundations
swedish plate The most common types of insulation are:
- with the use of insulation "Swedish plate";
- the basis is a shallow-depth tape;
In the application of the Swedish board, a special role is played by the insulating formwork, which is created from XPS foam boards. Thus, a formwork form is formed, which perfectly retains heat and is a good waterproofing layer.
Both types are installed at a shallow depth, which introduces its own limitations and requirements for the materials of the house. Great for walls made of foam or gas silicate blocks. Also, construction is possible only on stable soils with a minimum heaving factor.
What if the soil is unstable?
On unstable ground, a common mistake when building the foundation of a house is the fact that it is buried quite shallowly in the ground, this usually happens when some kind of "specialist" is working, who tries to get the job done as soon as possible, without thinking about what the house will turn out, to put it mildly, of poor quality.
In heaving conditions, the tape must be laid below the freezing level of the soil, otherwise, in the spring it may crack.
It is not so much the temperature of the earth or air that is important, but good waterproofing and proper drainage. You should also properly backfill the foundation of the house.
So which foundation to choose
There is no unequivocal answer to the question - what type of foundation is warmer, since it depends on the finishing materials and construction technology.
If the soil is stable, does not heave and the house is light - choose a shallow tape, if the house is heavy or the soil is unstable - definitely dig below the freezing level. Other types of foundations must be considered specifically for the type of house and soil.
The procedure for warming the foundation
Polystyrene sheets are fixed with a special glue. If the house has already been built and the cold floor does not allow you to sleep peacefully, you can insulate the foundation from the outside with polystyrene panels. This will move the dew point, get rid of cold bridges and make the basement warm.
In order to insulate the foundation, you first need to select a part of the soil around the perimeter of the foundation, about 0.5 m wide and 20-25 cm deep below the base of the foundation. The remains of the excavated soil are carefully removed, all irregularities are smoothed out. A waterproofing material is applied to the surface (preferably in two layers). Next, the groove is filled with sand or gravel, carefully tamping, so that the layer is level with the base of the foundation.
A polystyrene slab is applied to the foundation starting from the sole in the vertical direction and from the corner of the building horizontally, using a construction hole and a level. Sheets are fixed with special dowels with a wide cap. The gap between the base and the insulation must be sealed with construction foam. Next, the structure is buried and well tamped.
Next, we finish and insulate the basement of the house. Which material to choose depends on the type of foundation. The plinth can be made of brick, artificial or natural stone, or upholstered with plastic panels. Under any of the types (be guided by the budget), a layer of thermal insulation is laid.
Watch a video about the arrangement of a "warm" foundation:
Conclusion
In conclusion, we add that one should strive not to make the foundation warm, but to proceed from the task. If you need a warm floor - enough good waterproofing and floor insulation. If you want to have a warm basement, do it according to the technology from pouring and insulating the foundation to a good basement finish. The budget, reliability of the foundation and the temperature in the house will depend on the materials and type chosen.
Building your own home can be done either on your own or with the help of hired professionals. In the first case, the implementation of this process is much more reliable, especially if you have at least basic building skills. In addition, it will allow you to save money on hiring workers. The second option, as you know, will cost you much more. And it's not just the financial side. When building a house, as a rule, it is first of all worth focusing on the foundation. It should be not only reliable and strong, but also warm. After all, you can make a warm foundation in a private house, which will provide the most comfortable living conditions in it, with your own hands.
The main types of insulated foundation for the house
In most cases, there are 2 main types of foundation:
- isolated foundation "Swedish plate";
The meaning of the first design is to use a special warm formwork consisting of XPS foam boards, which define the shape of the base, and, in addition, contribute to an increase in the level of insulation. In addition, after laying pipe fittings, which are installed additionally and filled with coolant, the house is effectively heated. The entire filling is poured with concrete, pressed with a vibrating screed, and the result is a warm monolithic slab. This foundation will be relevant for the construction of houses from aerated concrete.
The appearance of the second type of foundation was made possible due to the ability of expanded polystyrene to maintain its insulating properties even in conditions of high humidity. Expanded polystyrene is under the foundation and as the basis of contact with internal and external parties. It turns out that the foundation lies on a thick warm pillow 6-12 cm thick, and is equal to about half a meter.
Due to this, it does not fall into the freezing zone of the soil, and heat losses are reduced, respectively. Price shallow foundation significantly lower than the cost of other options for laying the foundation for a house. It is suitable mainly for laying on non-rocky or slightly heaving soils, it will also be relevant for the construction of wooden houses.
The first and most important stage in the construction of each structure is the construction of the foundation.
A lot of things depend on this stage. Insulation of the house can be done at a later stage. Highly a large number of people living in countries or regions of states located in the northern parts the globe, carefully warms his dwellings by insulating the walls and floors of his houses, spending money on electric and gas methods, forgetting about the foundation as one of the highest quality and most reliable sources of heat.
Back to index
What is needed for the foundation of a warm house?
The structure of the base of the house is quite simple. It involves the following components: soil, strip foundation and floor. This is necessary in order for the house to stand for as long as possible, and at the same time act as a barrier to the entry of cold air flows into the room.
You can implement all the activities aimed at achieving the set result, remembering the school physics course. The necessary argument is that warm air is much lighter than cold air, respectively, cold air is formed in the lower part and, with gradual heating, it rises higher. That is why it is almost always cold in houses with high ceilings. But it does not happen that all the warm air cools down at once and rises. This happens gradually, without any special measures and without human intervention.
But it is quite possible to direct these processes. This situation can be changed with . In connection with this event, you will not have to wait for the cold air to warm up, as only warm air will always be in the house.
Another mistake is due to the fact that often during the construction of a house the foundation is not deeply dug into the ground, often this is the fault of the builders, as they try to do everything that needs to be done very quickly, not caring that the work will be done accurately and sufficiently. securely. They are very often unaware that grounds in harsh environments need to be insulated. Therefore, one should also take into account the fact that if the foundation is not deep enough, this will lead to a more efficient passage of cold air into the room through the underground.
Soil analysis is required in order to determine as accurately as possible the depth at which foundation can be laid. Sufficiently high passing groundwater indicates that the base cannot be too deep. Moist soils conduct cold air better than dry soils, so it is advisable to take care of the insulation of the foundation at the stage of building a house.
For after its installation, materials such as:
- expanded clay - a porous material that retains heat (almost the cheapest material for insulation);
- earth, which is sprinkled with that part of the foundation that remained on the surface;
- Styrofoam.
The technologies for building a reliable foundation do not stand still. If very recently low-rise construction mainly tape and columnar bases were used, today they are “joined by UWB or insulated Swedish plate.
This is one of the types of slab foundations of small depth. Why Swedish? Everything is simple here. This basis was invented and actively used in Scandinavian countries, where the climate is quite severe. However, the UWB proved to be extremely positive and its high performance characteristics have been tested over the years.
The Swedish foundation is an innovative product. The following are integrated into the multilayer design of the slab: drainage, sewerage, water supply systems, insulation, "warm floor". As a result, it is not just a foundation. UWB is the ideal floor of the first floor, insulated, with communications, ready for finishing decoration, such as tiles.
Structurally, the foundation looks in the following way(incision)
Advantage Features:
- Suitable for various soils, including difficult ones, such as watery and heaving.
- The basis for the construction of houses from any materials, ranging from light frame to brick.
- Integrated communications (it remains only to connect plumbing or make internal wiring) and a water "warm floor" system.
- Excellent heat-saving properties.
- Lack of assembly seams, protection against a mold and dampness.
The installation of the UWB foundation will not take more than two weeks, given the start of work from the zero cycle. This does not require heavy special equipment (except for a concrete pump), there is no need for volumetric earthworks.
Insulated foundation: we make UWB ourselves
Is it possible to prepare UWB on your own? This is quite within the power of everyone, it is enough to follow the technology and the procedure for performing work.
The first thing to start with is drafting a project. In this case, this is the most important step. You should know in advance where and what communications will be laid, the intensity of heating for each room, the installation site of plumbing, household equipment, and a heating manifold. 
Step-by-step UWB device
If we disassemble the manufacturing technology of a slab insulated foundation, then it is necessary to highlight the following main points.
the top layer of soil is removed. If you want to save money, you can do this work with shovels. Otherwise, an excavator is hired. The bottom of the pit is leveled in the horizon. 
it does an excellent job of separating the layer. During operation, it does not rot, does not collapse. We talked about geotextiles in detail. 
water supply, sewerage, depending on the project, there may be electricity. 
It is advisable to compact the wet sand in layers to achieve maximum cushion density. The thickness of the sand layer is about 15 cm. 
Like a sand cushion, its thickness is also about 15 cm. The rubble is carefully leveled over the entire area of the future foundation. 
Formwork is assembled along the perimeter of the foundation. There are two options for its device: from special polystyrene blocks or traditional wooden shields. It should be noted that the blocks are much more reliable, plus they perform the functions of thermal insulation. 
Extruded polystyrene foam boards are actively used as insulation. They are laid in two layers, so that its total thickness was 20 cm. Between the layers there is a vapor barrier film. 
USP reinforcement
A reinforcing cage is attached to special supports. Corrugated rods with a diameter of 12 mm are used. 
REHAU "warm floor" is laid on the reinforcing mesh
The material is special polyethylene pipes, the most resistant to stress, not subject to chemical reaction when in contact with mortar mixtures. The layout is carried out by separate circuits for the premises of the future structure. In this case, the temperature in each room can be easily adjusted by opening/closing the corresponding manifold valve. Lay out the "warm floor" with a snake or snail. The ends of the pipes are connected to the collector and filled with air or non-freezing liquid. Under pressure, the tubes will easily transfer the loads from the concrete layer and will not be damaged. 
It should be noted that it is better to use the factory mixture delivered by machines. Using a concrete pump, the solution is evenly distributed over the entire base. Deep vibrators remove air bubbles, and the concrete is leveled on a horizontal level. The device of the slab "in one fill" allows you to avoid seams, making the foundation monolithic. The thickness of the concrete layer is 10 cm. Next, the surface of the slab is polished to perfect condition. 
When the concrete slab dries, the air is bled from the "warm floor" system, and the collector outlet is conserved. The formwork is disassembled, if polystyrene foam blocks were used, then the supporting supports are removed. The insulated Swedish foundation is ready! Now you can proceed to the construction of walls, roofs, etc. But you no longer have to think about laying utilities, heating the first floor and leveling the subfloor for finishing with decorative materials. 
UWSP will become a reliable and most importantly warm foundation for your home!
Do you also have a UWB foundation? Tell us how you did it in the comments.
.
INSTRUCTIONS for the installation of an inexpensive, CORRECT, strip foundation.
The sand is the one that will be available. Take the cleanest possible clay.
A sand cushion is needed not to the surface, its purpose is to fill in irregularities after excavation of fertile soil and prevent subsequent settlement of the foundation.
It is highly desirable, for such a depth (30-50 cm), to take out the fertile layer to a width of 1.6 m.
The location of the excavation axis relative to the axis of the tape 150-"-150 tape and 500-"-1100.
The bottom of the ditch is developed with a slight (1 cm / meter) slope to the outside.
Along the outer side of the ditch it is necessary to lay a drainage pipe Ø100mm. Sold in a 50m bay. You need to buy the whole bay. Bring the ends of the pipe to the lowest side of the site. Of course, for them it will be necessary to dig another groove.
Sand is covered with a layer of 20-30 cm, moistened with water, compacted.
Mark the location of the water inlet to the house, the electrical cable and the outlet of the sewer pipe.
Assemble the strip foundation formwork, correct it.
Buy, BRING and LAY all these communications.
Put a plastic film on the bottom of the formwork, straighten it and fix it on the walls with a stapler. above. This will serve as an additional waterproofing from below, prevent the concrete milk from flowing out and accelerate the maturation of the concrete.
Fittings f12mm EXTREMELY desirable should be tied into a frame, with transverse clamps. You can, of course, stick vertical sticks in 500mm increments and tie horizontal wires to them, but this is WRONG.
Frames are knitted separately. For a tape section of 300x500mm, it will be approximately 220x420. Clamp pitch 400mm.
Strengthen the reinforcement cages inside the formwork so that they cannot move during the pouring of concrete.
AGAIN check the fastening of the entire formwork.
Calculate the volume inside and order concrete with a margin of 5%
Prepare a place for a possible devoid of concrete in the amount of 0.5-1 cubic meters
Prepare additional trays for receiving concrete, if they may be needed. Mixers may have a broken fold-out tray.
Invite two assistants to accept concrete.
To accept concrete without diluting it with water, for ease, but to properly bayonet it and tap the formwork.
On the third day, dismantle the formwork.
Slightly level the soil inside and lay a layer of foam or expanded polystyrene with a layer of 50 mm
Perform a backfill. If you want to make an unheated floor on the ground, then backfilling must be done with sand, moistening it and compacting it.
Install extruded polystyrene foam of any brand with a thickness of 50 mm along the outer perimeter on the wall of the tape.
If there is no floor on the ground, but there are lags, then it was necessary to provide VENTILATION BREAKS in the tape, arranging them so that the space is blown through.
Level the sand in the pit on the outside of the belt. Along the lines of the roof drain, at a distance of 500 mm from the tape, lay sewer pipe for the drain, giving it a slope in the same direction as the drainage.
Fill the pipe with sand, if necessary, adding a SMALL amount of it.
Run a slight slope FROM the tape. Lay polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam on this sand with a layer of 50 mm, with a slope from the house.
If everything is done correctly, then the drainage pipe will be located UNDER this sheet, not far from its edge.
Order a crushed stone machine with a fraction of 10-20, and fill this polystyrene foam with a layer of 10 cm.
If the house is not completed during the first winter, it is also advisable to insulate the inner surface of the tape, because. on concrete, the soil under it will ALWAYS freeze, to the estimated depth FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE TAPE. Epps, polystyrene, snow, sawdust, and any other effective insulation can be used for these purposes.
How much does all this cost, do not ask, but consider yourself. The information is exhaustive.
I hope my advice will be heard.
P.s.
If it seems that there is too much fuss with the formwork in your opinion, then you
Foundation
Foundation types
Foundations can be divided into tape, slab, column and pile. Under a heavy house, a tape or slab foundation. Columnar and pile foundations may be suitable for light houses: frame, wooden, from SIP panels. In most cases, foundations are made of concrete. concrete foundations are prefabricated and monolithic. Prefabricated are built from ready-made foundation blocks (FBS), monolithic foundations are poured on the spot from purchased or home-made concrete.Slab Foundation is a large solid monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which is located under the whole house. The strip foundation goes with a strip of a certain thickness around the entire perimeter of the house plus under other load-bearing walls inside the building.
When studying the ordered foundation project, you need to ask the question to every detail: why is this. In the foundations, everything makes sense: U- and L-shaped bent reinforcement reinforces the corners of the tape, additional spacers allow you to fix the formwork as reliably as possible, a sand-gravel cushion allows you to level the winter heaving of the soil, etc.
Unfortunately, designers may not be as professional as they seem. They can choose a strange type of foundation, or make very expensive reinforcement, or make a weak tape for difficult soil. Once again: the foundation is selected and calculated from two sides - from above the mass of the house, from below the bearing capacity of the soil. If the foundation was drawn by the designer, then he must show detailed calculation all loads.
The 25 most recent comments are shown. Show all comments (42).
|
Dmitriy (26.02.2015 18:40)
Alex, 3 months for concrete is overkill, a waste of time. In a separate article about concrete, he wrote about curing, 3-4 days - this is already 70% of the calculated strength. In a month, you can safely build. In construction, everything must always be explained by concrete arguments. Why should a monolithic foundation "settle" for a long time? What processes can take place there? FBS - too good decision. Count the costs, blocks + work + crane. Positive side monolith in that the foundation is single. Nevertheless, it theoretically should be more reliable than the prefabricated one. As for non-metallic fittings - are there any houses that have stood on it for 50 years? |
|
Dmitriy (30.05.2015 20:19)
> the choice of foundation does not depend on the depth of soil freezing for a long time Especially for you: read the second paragraph in the article. > Are you sure that foundation slab cheaper than tape? But the slab foundation is the most reliable for aerated concrete, from which 70 percent of developers are built. > Well, about stray currents in the reinforcement cage, knitting with plastic clamps and not touching the reinforcement, this is generally a laugh. > Epps breaks down when exposed to ultraviolet light |
