Rain sewers are designed to divert excess storm water from the area near the house. Its device is absolutely necessary, since the spring melting of snow or excess water that appears after summer showers can cause the soil around garden house or a cottage eventually becomes unsuitable for growing anything. And the “bottomless” puddle at the very porch, which appears after even a slight rain, does not bring much joy.
To avoid swamping suburban area, it is necessary to provide for the installation of rainwater drainage even at the stage of construction and planning.
Water from precipitation requires its own drainage system
Wastewater systems
There are several types of systems that drain rain and melt water:
- open type. To divert excess water in this system, open channels, cuvettes, trays are used.
- closed type. The water collected by special drainage trays enters the rainwater wells (storm water inlets), and then into the pipeline network located underground, through which the runoff is directed to discharge. This network may include facilities for water purification.
- Mixed type. In this case, some elements of the open type system can be replaced underground network pipes.
Rainwater inlet of a closed drainage system Close to every house without fail drainage sewerage is designed to remove excess moisture from its foundation. Sometimes overly thrifty owners are tempted to use this system to divert excess precipitation and spring water. Experts do not recommend doing this, since excess moisture will adversely affect the foundation, leading to its destruction in a shorter time. Rainwater drainage design is absolutely essential and should not be skimped on.
Creation of a rain sewer
Parameters and calculations of drainage systems
The greatest effect can only be achieved from a sewer that complies with all the rules and regulations for such structures. Before starting work on the installation of a drainage system, a calculation of rainwater drainage is carried out, which takes into account:
- total Wastewater;
- the number of required drains, their throughput;
- the amount and frequency of precipitation;
- the type of soil prevailing in the area;
- relief;
- the area of the drained territory;
- the need to preserve the design of the surrounding landscape.
The preparation of such a hydroproject must be entrusted to specialists. And only after that proceed with the purchase of the necessary equipment and materials for the installation of a drainage system on your site.
Regulatory documents that the equipped rain sewer must comply with - SNiP, SanPiN - prescribe compliance with the necessary minimum dimensions drainage elements, calculated on the basis of specific conditions:
- The width of the drains, sufficient for uninterrupted operation under normal conditions, is from 100 to 130 mm.
- More intensive water drainage required in individual cases, and confirmed by calculations, involves designing a width of gutters up to 200 mm.
Diameters sewer pipes, the total load on the system, the height of the channel and some other parameters are also subject to calculation.
Pro tip:
A complete list of all the necessary parameters for calculating storm sewers can be found in various directories and on the websites of companies specializing in such activities.
Installation of drainage systems
The rainwater drainage system includes:
- trays, channels, gutters for collecting precipitation;
- trays for water drainage;
- storm water inlets;
- pipes;
- viewing wells.
As a rule, the storm drain on the site is arranged parallel to the drainage system. The slope of the rain sewer must remain the same - 3-5 mm per 1 m. In the case when the drainage pipes are located deep enough, engineering system for the removal of storm and melt water can be arranged directly above it.
Features of the installation process:
- Polypropylene pipes are placed on a sand cushion, the thickness of which should be at least 5-10 cm.
Pro tip:
Do not forget to compact the soil well over the drainage pipes before installing the storm drain to avoid accidental damage.
- A filter funnel is installed under the downpipe, which collects large debris. Water, getting into the pipes for rain sewerage, is supplied to the storm water inlet connected to the collector.
- A device is provided in the drainage well that does not allow water to enter the drainage system with a sharp increase in its volume (flood, heavy rainfall). This is a ball check valve installed at the inlet to the well of the drainage pipe, and in the upper part of the well - a coupling that allows the pipe to be extended to the surface of the earth.
- Water from the drainage well enters ditches, reservoirs or a collector, from which it is discharged either into common system sewers, or merges directly into the ground or open drain, passing through a layer of rubble.
Rain sewer will allow rain and melt water to be diverted further from the foundation of the house through pipes, ditches and trays to low places or organized watercourses.
Rain sewer can be closed, open or combined type. The simplest of all is open. When installing an open rain sewer, water from the roof and roadway, as well as from the blind area of the house, is collected in special trays or cuvettes.
Further, due to the slope of the trays or ditches, the water is diverted to the side, farther from the house to low places or thalwegs.
Most often, you can find a closed-type rain sewer device, when water flowing from the roof of houses and the adjacent territory is discharged through pipes located at an estimated depth in the ground. Such pipes are laid in the ground at the stage of landscaping work and are hidden from view. Therefore, today In this article, we will consider a variant of a closed-type rain sewer device.
Photo-1. An example of a rain sewer device.
In photo-1 you can see a good example of a rain sewerage device, where the number 1 indicates water intake wells. They collect water from the territory adjacent to the house. The number-2 indicates the manhole.
Before starting work, it is necessary to think over everything and draw up a drainage project. The project must indicate the number and location of the water intake and inspection wells, as well as the length of the rain sewer, the depth of the pipes and their estimated diameter.
To draw up a competent project, exclusively for your house and site, you need to order such a project in a design organization. In the design organization, they will correctly calculate an approximate estimated quantity storm water collected from the roof as well as from the adjacent territory. Based on the calculated volume of water obtained, the diameter of the drainage pipes, the number of drainage wells and the length of the rain sewer are then assigned.
When there is no such project drawn up by specialists in the design organization, you need to calculate everything yourself, then buy everything you need. In doing so, the following must be taken into account:
1. The total amount of wastewater that can collect from the roof and the territory adjacent to the house during a downpour or snowmelt.
2. The terrain and the estimated amount of precipitation, (specifically for your area).
3. The type of soil prevailing in your area, the exact number of water intake wells, the length of the rain sewer and the diameter of the pipes.
Closed rainwater drainage device
Photo-2. Laying drainage pipes into the ground.
For the installation of rain sewer it is necessary:
1. Dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the house with the necessary slope for laying drainage pipes.
2. Lay water intake wells at the estimated distance from each other and at the estimated depth.
3. Arrange a layer of sand up to 30 cm high.
4. Compact the sand bed well, then lay the drainage pipes.
5. Cover the laid pipes with a protective layer of sand of the calculated height and compact.
6. Fill the drainage pipes with earth and seal.
The depth of the trench for laying pipes should be lower than the freezing depth of the soil in this area, by about 30 centimeters, to prevent freezing of water in the pipes. After that, water intake wells are located at an estimated distance (in this case 15-20 meters from each other).
Photo-3. Water intake well.
Water intake wells are made of concrete rings with a diameter of up to one meter in which the ends of the drainage pipes are brought out.
In such cases, if possible, it is necessary to use special equipment for digging trenches and laying concrete rings. Very important! Drainage pipes should be located at a distance of 20 to 40 centimeters from the bottom of the well to prevent silting or clogging of various debris. Thus, the flow of water mixed with silt, entering the concrete well through the pipes, will leave a significant amount of silt or debris particles in the form of deposits at the bottom of the well.
Photo-4. Covering pipes with a layer of sand.
Further, a sandy layer up to 30 centimeters high is arranged at the bottom of the trench and rammed. Drainage pipes are laid on the sandy layer, in this case with a diameter of ∅20 cm. 1.5 cm. That is, if the pipe is 6 meters long, then the second end of the pipe should be laid 9 centimeters lower in relation to the first. Of course, if the slope is greater, the better, in such cases the pipe is less clogged with silt.
Photo-5. Making holes in a concrete ring.
Holes with a diameter of ∅22 cm are made in concrete rings and the ends of the pipes are walled up.
Photo-6. Laying pipes in the ground to drain water from the yard.
To drain water from the roof of the house around the entire perimeter of the house at a distance of up to about 50 centimeters (see photo-3) from the foundation of the house, lay the pipes at the estimated depth. Further, other trenches are dug perpendicularly to them and pipes of the same diameter and rings are laid to drain water from the territory adjacent to the house.
Photo-7. Drainage pipes ready for filling with sand.
All gaps between the pipes and the concrete walls of the ring must be sealed with a strong cement mortar.
Photo-8. Compaction of the sand layer.
After laying the pipes on a compacted layer of sand, they are covered with another layer of sand and compacted. The height of the sand layer from the top of the laid drainage pipe is taken according to the calculation, but in this case it is 30 centimeters. It is more expedient to use a vibrator to compact the sand.
Photo-9. Filling drainage pipes with earth.
After the drainage pipes have been laid to the estimated depth and the sand layer has been sufficiently compacted, they are covered with soil and carefully compacted.
Photo-10. Water intake well.
From adjacent to home of the territory, and also, water is removed from the blind area of the house using water intake wells. Such wells must be constantly clean during operation, that is, regularly cleaned of silt and dirt.
In case of excessive waterlogging of the soil adjacent to the house, a drainage system is arranged around the house.
Photo-11. Vertical drainpipes.
From the roof, water flows into the gutters, then through the water intake funnels it enters the vertical drainpipes and is discharged into the underground drainage pipe system.
Rain sewer is a complex of devices that collect, filter and further remove atmospheric moisture. It enters tanks and special reservoirs. The task of this system is to eliminate excess moisture, which creates discomfort and destroys structures, reducing their service life. This also applies to plants that are interfered with by excess moisture in the area.
Description
Rain sewerage is a linear network that provides for the presence of standard elements such as storm water inlets, gutters and manholes. If a we are talking about storm water inlets, they look like pallets, funnels, as well as linear trays that collect excess water. Trays, pipes and troughs transport the liquid to the sand trap, which is a filtration device that sends water to a reservoir or collector. required to control the entire system. In order for the network not to be contaminated with plant fibers, debris and soil, it needs sand traps and filters. All of the above elements must be connected to each other in single system, which works on point or line technology. If the channels are located in the ground, pipes should be used for their construction. Gutters and trays made of concrete, asbestos or plastic are mounted in surface channels.
Collecting information before installation work
Before you equip rainwater drainage, you need to collect certain information that will help eliminate errors. This should include data on the average amount of precipitation, which is recorded in a particular area. The master should find out how often it rains, and also ask if the snow cover is powerful. For a point type of sewerage, it is necessary to know the area of \u200b\u200bdrain, which is the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof. You should not take the full value, you only need the value of the projection of the plane. If we are talking about a linear system, then the runoff area is the sum of the areas of processed objects. It is important to analyze the soil, since the design uses the physical and mechanical characteristics of the soil on the site. It is important to consider whether there are communication systems laid underground on the territory.
If you will be equipping a rain sewer, then it is important to familiarize yourself with the information about the depth of laying the channels. It is necessary to lay channels and trays from pipes, going deeper, taking into account the recommendations that are given for a particular region. In the middle lane, the rainwater drainage system is laid to a depth of 0.3 meters. This figure is correct when the diameter of open trays and pipelines is not more than 50 centimeters. If we are talking about pipes and trays with larger sizes, then you need to go deeper by 0.7 meters.
For reference
Sewerage should be located above the drainage, if such a system is available in the area of work. This feature should be taken into account when designing.
What else you need to know about the depth of the system elements
For the reason that excavation are quite expensive, people who use professional installation services do not want to go too deep into the ground. Even if the storm sewer device will be carried out on its own, it is not recommended to install it too deeply. and collectors should not be located below the seasonal freezing level of the soil. They can be placed higher, but you will have to use heat-insulating material, a layer of crushed stone and geotextiles. If the deepening is not too noticeable, then the complexity of the work will decrease. At the same time, we should not forget that the channels that lead water to collection and purification should be located at an angle. This indicates the need to equip the entrance to the collector well below the level of the pipe or tray, one of which departs from the storm water inlet.
Stormwater installation technology
Rainwater sewerage is laid on the same principle as conventional sewerage. But if the house is not equipped with a drainage system, then it is necessary to start with its arrangement. In the ceilings of the house, holes should be made for storm water inlets. After mounting the devices and fixing them on the bituminous mastic, the junction points must be sealed. At the next stage, sewers are installed, all elements are attached to the structures of the house using clamps. Then you can proceed to work with trays if you decide to use a linear type of system. When installing a spot circuit, prepare outlet pipes.
Installation of the underground part
The arrangement of the rain sewer network provides for the preparation of a trench at the next stage, which is formed according to the planned plan, taking into account the slope. If the pipeline is to be insulated, then a shell of geotextile and crushed stone should be formed around it. An alternative option is to use a sand cushion. At the next stage, the bottom of the trench is rammed, and the stones are removed. The spaces formed after them must be covered with soil. The bottom is filled with a sand cushion, the thickness of which is 20 centimeters. To install the collector tank, a pit should be formed. You can use a plastic container as a collector. But if you wish, you can make a storm sewer collector well. These works involve pouring concrete into the equipped formwork.
Work methodology
Pipes should be laid in ditches that have been compacted and equipped with sand cushions. To connect them into one system, you need to use fittings. If the rainwater pipes have a total length of more than 10 meters, then manholes should be provided. Sand traps must be installed at the junctions of the water-receiving collectors and the pipeline. After connecting all the elements into a single circuit, it is necessary to seal the seams. Before backfilling the trench, tests are carried out by pouring water into the water intake.
If no weak points were found, then the system can be covered with soil. Gutters and pallets are equipped with gratings.
The collector city well is forbidden to be introduced into the general sewer network, since it receives effluents with oil products and chemicals. If you are the owner country house, then you can connect the storm drain to your own sewer, since there will be no dangerous components in the discharged water that could require fine cleaning. Drainage pipes are most often made of PVC, and their diameter should be equal to 110 millimeters. The elements are connected to each other by a double coupling. The slope of the sewer towards the spillway should be approximately 2 centimeters per meter.
Conclusion
The storm drain must not be combined with the drainage system. If this requirement is neglected, then gradually the water will saturate the underground clay soils, which will begin to swell and destroy the blind area, as well as structures and foundations. For this reason, you should not dump storm drains into the sewers of the pool and bath.
The roof of the house collects rain and melt water from a fairly large surface. The larger the roof area, the greater the amount of water discharged from the roof per unit time. It is necessary to organize the drainage of water from the roof so that it does not flood the walls of the house, does not soak the soil on which the foundation of the house rests, and does not create “rivers and lakes” on the site.
The method of draining water from the roof is chosen depending on the design of the roof, aesthetic preferences and the construction budget.
Gutter systems from gutters and pipes
The most popular solution for draining water from the roof is a gutter system, the main elements of which are overhead gutters and downspouts.
In the composition of the drainage system, each manufacturer also usually includes corner elements, protective nets, revisions, fastening parts - brackets, holders, clamps, etc.
The maximum size of the gutter in the cross section is usually within 100 - 150 mm., and downspout 70 - 100 mm. Gutters are produced in different shapes: semi-circular, semi-oval, trapezoidal, rectangular or more complex shapes. The shape of the downspouts must match the shape of the gutter. The shape of the gutter is usually chosen for aesthetic reasons. All elements of the system are easily joined together and, with proper installation, regularly drain water.
Gutter parts can be made of PVC-plastic, galvanized steel, aluminium, copper or titanium-zinc alloy. For economy class houses usually use plastic or steel gutters. Systems from other materials are much more expensive.
Pros and cons of a PVC plastic gutter system
The gutter system made of PVC plastic has the following advantages:
- Has the minimum cost in comparison with systems from metal.
- The unusually smooth surface of the gutters and pipes prevents the accumulation of dirt.
- High resistance to corrosion.
- Simple installation that does not require high qualifications and special expensive devices. It is possible to assemble a drain from plastic with your own hands. It is only necessary to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
- Details are painted over in mass, so scratches on its surface are hardly noticeable.
When choosing a drainage system made of plastic, one should also take into account its following features:
- Not very high resistance to low and high temperatures. The working temperature of parts is from -30 o C to +60 o C. At low temperatures, plastic elements become more brittle.
- When the temperature changes, the coefficient of linear expansion of plastic parts is 7 times greater than that of steel. In the manufacture and installation of plastic gutters, special measures are taken to allow parts to change dimensions without destroying them.
- Under the action of significant mechanical loads on the drainage system, plastic parts crack and collapse, and metal parts are crushed.
Gutter elements made of galvanized steel often have a polymer coating of a wide range of colors, which makes it easy to match the color of the gutters to the color of the facade or roof. Parts of the system made of steel with a polymer coating are interconnected by locks or brackets with latches through rubber gaskets.
In the conditions of Russian snowy winters icing often forms on roof eaves, gutters and downpipes. Ice prevents water runoff from the roof, clogs gutters and pipes. Under the weight of the ice, the gutters and pipes are deformed and destroyed.
To protect against ice, increase durability and trouble-free operation of gutters, heating cables are mounted on the roof overhang, in gutters and pipes. The heating system adds a significant amount to the cost of constructing gutters. Plus, the annual cost of electricity.
Calculation of the dimensions of gutters and pipes
To select the dimensions of the elements of the roof gutter system, the effective area of the slope from which water is drained is determined by the formula:
Se=(b+h/2)*c,
where: b- horizontal distance from the cornice overhang to the roof ridge; h- roof height; With- the length of the roof slope along the midline. All dimensions are in meters.
If the slope area Se from which water is drained, less than 57 m 2, then a chute with a diameter of 100 mm. and downpipe with a diameter of 70 mm.
With slope area Se up to 97 m 2, the diameter of the gutter is increased to 125 mm. Gutters with a diameter of 150 mm. will provide water drainage from a slope with an area Se no more than 170 m 2. Downpipes in the last two cases, it is enough to choose a diameter of 100 mm.
Installation of roof drains - gutters and pipes
It is quite possible for the developer to carry out the installation of drainage gutters and downpipes on the roof on their own.
Three ways to install hanger gutter brackets. For high-quality installation of gutters, it is necessary:
- The outer edge of the gutter is located just below the inner one, then the water overflowing over the edge of the gutter during heavy rain will not fall on the facade.
Carefully study the manufacturer's instructions for installing the gutter system and carefully follow the recommendations set out in the manual.
Gutter brackets and pipe holders should be installed at a distance no more than specified in the installation manual. Usually the pitch of the brackets for the gutters is 0.35-0.5 m.
Be sure to ensure the slope of the gutters in the direction of the downpipe 0.5 - 2% (5 - 20 mm. for 1 m. gutter length). With such an inclination the gutters will clean themselves rain water flow. The minimum slope of the gutter is not less than 0.2% (20 mm. 10 meters long).
The edge of the gutter must be at least 3 cm. below the roof plane, otherwise sliding off the roof snow will damage the gutter.
The outer edge of the gutter must be placed from the roof overhang at a distance of 1/2 - 2/3 of the width of the gutter, then water will always fall into the gutter.
On steep roof slopes, it may not be possible to fulfill the last two conditions. In this case to protect against snow, barriers must be installed on the roof for his arrest.
When installing gutters at the joints, keep the thermal gaps recommended by the manufacturer of the drainage system. Gutters and pipes when temperature changes should be able to move freely- do not clamp them strongly at the attachment points.
Correct orientation of the suspended gutter in relation to the edge of the roof. To prevent snow sliding from the roof from damaging the gutter, its edge must be located at 3 cm. below the roof.
Details of the drainage system made of PVC plastic are interconnected through rubber seals or glued together.
When assembling the system, it is necessary to take into account the outside air temperature at the time of installation. At temperatures below -10 ° C, plastic becomes brittle. In addition, when cutting gutters, their length should be corrected, taking into account the subsequent change in linear dimensions with temperature fluctuations.
The gutter changes its length with temperature fluctuations, moving along the rubber seals at the joints.
Where to divert water from downpipes further?
The best solution is to connect downpipes to any closed water collection and drainage system. It could be:
- Underground drainage system for draining the site. Drainpipe connected to outlet drainage system through a collector well with a check valve that prevents rainwater from entering the drainage pipes;
- Storm sewerage for collection and drainage of water from the surface of the site;
- A special system for collecting and storing rain and melt water in order to further use for irrigation and other household needs.
- Sewerage system for household wastewater. At centralized system sewers, you must obtain permission to receive an additional amount of waste from the owner of the network (as a rule, they are allowed for an additional fee).
The rainwater inlet of the roof gutter system of a private house is equipped with a debris trap, which must be regularly cleaned through the hatch. Downspouts are connected to the water inlets of closed storm sewer systems through special devices - storm water inlets.
These devices collect large debris (leaves, etc.), and they may also have a valve that prevents air (odors) from escaping from the sewer system. The rainwater inlet has a hatch through which you will periodically have to remove the debris accumulated there.
The removal of rainwater through closed sewerage systems significantly increases the cost of building a house.
Most often, in economy class houses, they are used to receive and drain water flowing from a drainpipe, surface drainage trays.
From the downpipe, water enters the drainage tray of the blind area of a private house Such trays are usually arranged not only for draining water from the roof, but also for collecting and draining surface runoff from blind areas and other hard-surfaced areas. Discharge of water from the trays can be carried out on the relief of the site in a convenient place away from buildings or into a drainage well.
Drainage trays are usually made in situ of concrete or use ready-made drainage systems made of concrete, plastic or metal. Ready-made surface drainage systems from various manufacturers are available for sale. The main elements of such systems are trays and removable grilles that cover the tray from above.
A drainage device is installed on the drainpipes, which directs rainwater into a nearby container, a barrel. The device blocks the flow of water into the tank if it is completely filled.
A decorative container for collecting and storing water from downpipes can become a home decoration.
Gutters in your city
Gutters. id=13021032
Rain chain - original gutter
AT one-story houses instead of traditional downpipes, a chain can be attached to the gutters, along which water will flow.
Rain chains are extremely popular in Japan, where they are decorated with a variety of decorative elements. Chains are made from various materials, the links can have a complex spatial shape and alternate with decorative bowls and other elements. The lower and upper ends of the chain must be secured so that the chain remains taut.
When using rain chains for water drainage, the roof overhang should be increased - the distance from the wall of the house to the chain should be at least 0.5 m, or the wall should be additionally protected from moisture splashing.
Drainage above-wall overhead gutters on the eaves of the roof
In the gutter system described above, gutter trays are suspended from the roof eaves. Such gutters when exposed to ice and snow are easily deformed, displaced, damaged or clogged. The relatively small slope of the chute, the narrow and deep opening of the tray make it difficult to self-clean from debris.
In operation, the option of a gutter system with an overhead overhead gutter on the eaves of the roof delivers less hassle.
Unfortunately, elements of such a factory-made gutter system are not often found on sale.
Usually, in place, on the edge of the roof, a cornice overhang (pos. 5) is made of galvanized iron and a wall-mounted gutter (pos. 2) is fixed on top. Water from the gutter flows into the inlet funnel of the drainpipe, (pos.4). It is clear that the manufacture of parts from ordinary gray, without a color polymer coating, galvanized iron reduces the decorative effect of the roof.
Overhead gutters on slopes with a slight slope or small accumulation of snow can act as snow retainers.
Due to the increased consumption of metal, a drainage system with overhead gutters is usually more expensive, than hanging ones. However, the greater durability and reliability of overhead gutters, the ability, in some cases, to abandon the installation of snow retainers and electrical heating devices, make such gutters are quite competitive.
Free drainage from the roof is not the cheapest solution
Among some developers, there is an opinion that the cheapest thing to do is to let the water flow freely from the roof directly to the blind area and further to the ground.
You can not make a special device for collecting and draining water from the roof of the house, provided:
- Increase the overhang of the roof edge from the wall to 0.6 m.
- Perform reinforced waterproofing of the foundation and basement walls to a height of at least 0.5 m. above the surface of the blind area;
- Line the plinth to the specified height with a non-absorbent material with high frost resistance (for example, clinker bricks or tiles, natural stone, plinth siding).
- Ensure the slope of the blind area around the house and the surface of the site away from the house by a few percent.
Calculate the costs of these additional works and you will see that installing a gutter system to collect and drain water from the roof will be cheaper.
By arranging a free drain without the above measures, you run the risk of significantly reducing the durability of the walls of the house and the basement, reducing bearing capacity soils under the foundation due to their soaking.
In addition, unorganized water flows through the site reduce the comfort of using the territory. The blind area is often used as a footpath. With free drainage from the roof, such a path will become impassable during rain.
Free drainage is usually used in separate sections of the perimeter of the roof of the house and outbuildings. To collect water along the edge of the blind area, it is recommended to arrange a tray. The system for collecting water in a tray at the edge of the blind area is less sensitive to the effects of ice and snow, to clogging with debris, and is easier to clean than a gutter system on the roof.
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“Saving on “little things” will not work, you need to do it right” - the catchphrase of the old superintendent a week before the completion of the house referred to the process of laying rainwater pipes. In principle, it’s not a tricky business - to bury pipes in the ground, so the rain sewer is ready. But the first rain, melt water, washed asphalt near the house or not turning off the watering of the lawn in time will immediately show all the imperfections and mistakes made during its construction, and that is why a properly built rain sewer today is not an additional option, but a necessary element of any building project.
And here it is useful to recall a few problems that arise in the absence of rain and melt water runoff, here are the most harmless of them - flooding the basement of the building, washing out the pillows and destroying the foundation of the building, raising the level of groundwater, disturbing the road surface, shifting the soil and even closing power cables (after all, most houses are connected to electricity through underground inputs). To prevent these and similar problems, rain sewerage serves, in fact, it is designed for quick and guaranteed removal (release) of precipitation and melt water from urban areas, industrial enterprises, roads, highways or individual buildings.
Types of rain sewer
By appointment
Conditionally by intended purpose rain sewer types can be classified in different ways, one of the classifications according to the principle of belonging to the object:
By device type
Depending on the purpose of the facility and the local conditions where the rainwater drainage device is made, the type of sewerage device is selected:
Rain sewer device
As a rule, rainwater drainage has several interconnected structural elements, each of which has its own purpose and which complement each other, it consists of a set of the following engineering elements:
Plumbing advice: Depending on the object on which the construction of rainwater drainage is planned, a practical solution may include, as well as the entire range of elements, or only individual elements.
Calculation and design
The design and calculation of rainwater drainage is based on the basic initial requirements:
- speed of waste disposal;
- intensity and amount of precipitation;
- wastewater area (the area of the territory from which wastewater will be discharged);
- natural temperature regime;
- terrain;
- the degree and nature of wastewater pollution;
- other factors affecting the technical solutions of the sewerage construction.
Plumbing advice: These requirements ultimately determine the optimal technical solution at the storm sewer facility, for example - when designing the sewerage of gas stations, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of pollution of wastewater with oil products, and when laying sewers near playgrounds, take into account the safety factor of children.
An important condition of the project in modern world becomes an environmental issue that can significantly affect the entire stormwater drainage project of the facility. So today, many objects are designed taking into account integration into already existing systems- energy, logistics, environmental, which in turn require developers to comply with high standards for effluents discharged into the main sewer in terms of volume and degree of purification, often one of the requirements for storm water is diversion to certain areas or discharge into underground or open water bodies. All this leads to a change initial project and inclusion in the general system of filters for water purification from oil products, arrangement of drainage fields, construction of storage collectors and pumping stations.
Material selection
The next important design stage is the choice of material for rainwater drainage elements - today the market provides a huge range of options for the execution of these elements. Depending on the preference of the customer, it is possible to mount all the elements according to the principle of the Lego constructor; many elements, even from different manufacturers, are interchangeable.
In the choice of material for manufacturing modern technologies based on the use of PVC pipes and molded plastic products (composites), while successfully combining with ceramic products (ceramic pipes) and reinforced concrete products and cast iron.
During the installation of the connection of individual sewage elements, sealants are used to seal the joints, the use of which prevents water leakage and soil erosion. When using catchment tanks, they are located at a depth that excludes freezing in winter, or heat-insulating materials are additionally used.
A ready-made and tested rainwater drainage system does not require large labor costs for maintenance and repair during the operation period. However, like any engineering and technical structure, it requires timely maintenance and inspection. Rain service sewer system carried out - in the fall before the onset of cold weather and in the spring after the snow melts, it consists in inspecting, cleaning debris, sand, foliage and checking the patency of the underground parts of the sewer.
